![]() Your plastic bodied fuel selector body would be the first to go. Unless you're a stuntman driving your truck through burning buildings with flames licking at your floorpan on a regular basis, the fuel system won't get hot enough to melt and ignite. ![]() Most regulators will bleed off the pressure eventually, or it will leak down back through the pump provided there isn't a check valve. You do realize that the fuel lines are in the same area as the wiring harness that runs things at the rear of the truck? Add to that, lots of manufacturers (including Ford) use either rubber hose or plastic tubing for fuel line (usually with more volatile gasoline too.) The pieces of fuel hose I've added have lasted years so far without issue. Sorry if these seem to be dumb questions but want to slowly try and do this build myself if I can and get rid of my factory leaking fuel bowl.Īny help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks So is the IPR valve still used or is that deleted as well when using the fuel regulator. Is it safe to cut the existing steel fuel lines that connect to the banjo bolt on the rear of the fuel pump and just connect diesel fuel hose lines to them? I mean I like you layout better but would be afraid I would not get them made to the correct length. My worst fears are doing the rear fuel lines going to the back of the heads and the wiring. ![]() So the flex fuel lines coming from the front of the heads that goes into the fuel regulator did you just run the passenger side fuel line to the passenger side of the fuel regulator and the drivers side to the drivers side? Is it that simple? What did you do with the return line that goes to the tank? The Primary from the tank is what you ran into your 3 way Y connector correct that then goes to the rear head fuel lines? So do I need to keep any of the existing wiring that is on the factory fuel bowl? I am sure once I see it all it will come together fine. I am looking at attempting to do the same but a little scared. I did not need to cut them to make them fit. I bent the stock lines by hand into the right positions being careful not to kink them. These attached to the back of the head and came together with a brass three way air connector. I went to a transmission shop and had some custom made 3/8" stainless steel fuel lines to go under the turbo. The only thing I left was the fuel lines coming into the valley from the tanks. ![]() The first thing I did was remove the stock filter housing and pump. Stainless hose clamps - (home depot) $7.00įuel pressure guage - (harbor freight) $5.00īrass three way connector - (harbor freight) $4.00įittings misc brass - (harbor freight) $13.00įuel pump bracket - (wrecking yard) $5.00 Oil pressure switch - Holley 12-810 () $28.00įuel regulator - Aeromotive 13109 () $133įuel hose - Parker (international dealer) $5.00 ![]() Secondary Filter - (WIX) 33528 () $9.00įuel Lines - Stainless steel 3/8" under turbo (local) $100 Prefilter and base - Stanadyne 33640 () $74.64 Here is the list of parts I used and the costs. Luckily others have done this before so I didn't have to try and figure out what regulator and filters would work. I know that you can buy kits to do this but part of the fun is trying to gather together all the parts you need. IDM mod, DIY stage Is, and to convert from mechanical to an electrical fuel system. I decided there was three things on my to do list. Now that winter is here I decided to park my truck in the shop to give me something to do in the evenings. The following is a copy of a post I did on another forum last year. ![]()
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